An explanation of waves and how they are formed, in layman's terms.
Suitable for surfers and those who are fascinated by the sea and the coast. This book covers coastal geology (beaches; reefs; rivermouths); climate and big Waves (climatic cycles; storminess and surf; searching for the biggest waves; controlling the waves: every surfer's dream; and coastal intervent[...]
An introduction to the science of waves and oceanography from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and helps surfers to learn how to predict surf.[...]